What to do when you first arrive in Budapest?
Well…… for Jim and I the decision was easy. We wanted to head to the oldest part of the city, which meant a trek up to Buda, the palace city. Fortunately for us, from our hotel (The Marriott Budapest), we were able to walk right across the Chain Bridge to the other side of the Danube and the foot of Buda hill.
Chain Bridge is guarded by two huge lions sculpted by Janos Marshalko. An old story attached to the Lions says the sculptor drowned himself in the river because he forgot to give the Lions tongues. I won’t tell you here whether they do or not, you’ll just have to find out for yourself!
Well…… for Jim and I the decision was easy. We wanted to head to the oldest part of the city, which meant a trek up to Buda, the palace city. Fortunately for us, from our hotel (The Marriott Budapest), we were able to walk right across the Chain Bridge to the other side of the Danube and the foot of Buda hill.
Chain Bridge is guarded by two huge lions sculpted by Janos Marshalko. An old story attached to the Lions says the sculptor drowned himself in the river because he forgot to give the Lions tongues. I won’t tell you here whether they do or not, you’ll just have to find out for yourself!
The actual hill town of Buda grew up around the royal castle and Matyas Church. At 197 ft. (60 m), the hill Buda sits on made an excellent strategic position for a fortification, and that is what King Bela IV decided when he built his defensive castle in the 13th century after a Tartar invasion.
Fortunately, we didn’t have to walk or take a horse to get to the top. We jumped on the convenient funicular railway located at Clark Adam tier, which moved us with ease to the top of the hill.
Fortunately, we didn’t have to walk or take a horse to get to the top. We jumped on the convenient funicular railway located at Clark Adam tier, which moved us with ease to the top of the hill.
That is where we stepped back in time as we took in the wonderfully ornamental gateway to the palace from St. Gregory tier.
The Palace has been through many incarnations due to destruction caused by wars and occupation. Nobody really knows where the original 13th century castle was built, but most scholars believe it was closer to Matyas Church.
The 15th century Gothic palace was built in the same location as the current structure but was destroyed during Turkish rule. The palace was rebuilt under Hapsburg rule in the 18th and 19th centuries. This 19th century palace was destroyed during WWII and restored in 1945 back to its 19th century incarnation.
The 15th century Gothic palace was built in the same location as the current structure but was destroyed during Turkish rule. The palace was rebuilt under Hapsburg rule in the 18th and 19th centuries. This 19th century palace was destroyed during WWII and restored in 1945 back to its 19th century incarnation.
The Palace is a museum now, so you won’t see any furnishings or real insight into how the royal family may have lived, but a visit to the Palace Dome, designed in the Neo-Classical style is a must, just for the views.
Be sure to look out over the southwest side of the palace terraces because you will be able to see where they are excavating some of the 15th century castle remains. You can see where they have uncovered the Gothic palace defensive walls and royal chambers.
Like the palaces; much of the city of Buda was destroyed during WWII and had to be rebuilt, though you can find a few original gems if you look carefully, particularly 18th and 19th century survivors.
We decided to take a carriage ride, which was a fun way to get an overall picture of Buda. As we trotted through the lanes, our driver filled us in on the history of Buda and she pointed out places we should return to for a closer look. One of these was the Labyrinth, a system of underground caves and cellars dating back centuries which have been turned into a strange but fun (and a little cheesy!) “museum”. But more of that later!
Buda’s old town flourished under its Kings, particularly King Sigismund and because of this, wealthy German merchants set up shops on Lord’s Street to supply the palace court. Aristocrats also built their mansions on Lord’s street and the medieval foundations can still be found underneath the colorful 19th century facades. You will love wandering through the cobbled streets and squares.
We decided to take a carriage ride, which was a fun way to get an overall picture of Buda. As we trotted through the lanes, our driver filled us in on the history of Buda and she pointed out places we should return to for a closer look. One of these was the Labyrinth, a system of underground caves and cellars dating back centuries which have been turned into a strange but fun (and a little cheesy!) “museum”. But more of that later!
Buda’s old town flourished under its Kings, particularly King Sigismund and because of this, wealthy German merchants set up shops on Lord’s Street to supply the palace court. Aristocrats also built their mansions on Lord’s street and the medieval foundations can still be found underneath the colorful 19th century facades. You will love wandering through the cobbled streets and squares.
After our wonderful carriage ride, we headed to Matayas Church to explore its beautiful interior. The Matayas Church you see now is mostly from the reconstruction dating from 1874-96, but you can find parts of original 14th and 15th century church features if you look closely.
The name of the church refers to King Matyas Corvinus who greatly enlarged and embellished the structure. Unfortunately, much of the original detail was destroyed when the Turks converted the church into the Great Mosque in 1541 and then later almost completely destroyed during the liberation of Buda.
That being said, you will be stunned by its beautiful interior which has soaring Gothic style vaulted ceilings, tall jeweled colored stain glass windows. The intricately carved pulpit is based on Gothic Triptychs. The Tomb of King Bela III and Anne de Chatillon is located in the Trinity Chapel. And don't forget when you walk back outside to look up at the beautiful multi-colored glazed tiles that decorated the roof with an intricate design.
The name of the church refers to King Matyas Corvinus who greatly enlarged and embellished the structure. Unfortunately, much of the original detail was destroyed when the Turks converted the church into the Great Mosque in 1541 and then later almost completely destroyed during the liberation of Buda.
That being said, you will be stunned by its beautiful interior which has soaring Gothic style vaulted ceilings, tall jeweled colored stain glass windows. The intricately carved pulpit is based on Gothic Triptychs. The Tomb of King Bela III and Anne de Chatillon is located in the Trinity Chapel. And don't forget when you walk back outside to look up at the beautiful multi-colored glazed tiles that decorated the roof with an intricate design.
It was restored by Franciscan Friars in the Baroque style, but even that did not last as it was again damaged in 1723. Its grand restoration was in 1873-96 and was restored in the Neo-Gothic style. This is why while being a beautiful church; you really must look hard to determine which decoration came from what historical period.
After some serious contemplation inside Matyas Church, we were ready for some un-serious exploring, and that can certainly be found in the Labyrinth! Cheesy as people says it is we loved exploring the vast caverns under Buda.
The caves themselves hosted humans beginning a half a million years ago and continued to be used by human beings throughout the millennia. Since the historical period, the extensive cave/cellar system was used for a number of purposes. During the Middle Ages the caves were used for storing food and belongings and its natural wells provided fresh water. The Turks were the first to connect the separate caverns in the 16th century, primarily for military purposes.
During WW II the interconnected caves and cellars were fortified and used as an air raid shelter and a hospital. In the Cold War period the caves were upgraded to serve as a nuclear bunker. The entire network of caves, cellars and passageways is approximately 6 miles (10 km) long and most recently has been used as the “Labyrinth” and “Hospital in the Rock” museum.
The caves themselves hosted humans beginning a half a million years ago and continued to be used by human beings throughout the millennia. Since the historical period, the extensive cave/cellar system was used for a number of purposes. During the Middle Ages the caves were used for storing food and belongings and its natural wells provided fresh water. The Turks were the first to connect the separate caverns in the 16th century, primarily for military purposes.
During WW II the interconnected caves and cellars were fortified and used as an air raid shelter and a hospital. In the Cold War period the caves were upgraded to serve as a nuclear bunker. The entire network of caves, cellars and passageways is approximately 6 miles (10 km) long and most recently has been used as the “Labyrinth” and “Hospital in the Rock” museum.
The cave/cellars were filled with original brick cellar work and whimsical modern sculptures that seemed to spring out of the cave rock floors and walls. It was a little dim, but that only added to the mystery of following the maze of tunnels, never knowing what you would see next. We loved it!
Unfortunately, the Labyrinth Museum we visited has been closed by the government off and on, for the last several years. Be sure to check whether it is currently open or not before you visit!
Unfortunately, the Labyrinth Museum we visited has been closed by the government off and on, for the last several years. Be sure to check whether it is currently open or not before you visit!
When you are on Buda hill, be sure to take the time to stroll through Fisherman’s Bastion. It is a fanciful 19th century construction designed and built between on the plans of Frigyes Schulek. The Bastion takes its name from the guild of fishermen that was responsible for defending this stretch of the city walls in the Milddle Age and it has a fairy-tale look with walking paths and terrific views of the Danube. If you are lucky, a Hungarian band will be playing at the café and you can listen to their lively music while you sip a tea or beer!
Finally, and naturally since it is me and Jim after all, we had to stop and have a cool frothy beer to finish off our wonderful afternoon on Buda hill.
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